A very good friend (and ex-colleague) of mine, Mary-Anne, has recently emigrated with her husband to Portugal to live close to her older son and his family. I decided to design some fingerless gloves for her to wear in Maia (the city where she will be living) which has a Mediterranean climate with temperatures similar to those which we experience in our common hometown of Pietermaritzburg, South Africa. The main difference is the Winter rainfall in Portugal, so it might feel colder there as it will also be wet.
I decided to use the herringbone half double crochet for the body of the glove as it gives a lovely look and texture to the glove. I made two pairs for her, one in blue and another pair using neutral colours where I added a bit of extra detail by highlighting the camel stitch section using a different colour, and by adding little wooden buttons that say "Handmade with love". These buttons also help to distinguish the left from the right glove and one doesn't have to check where the seam is to see which glove belongs to which hand.
Having made many different kinds of gloves, I now have a much greater understanding of glove construction and so was easily able to design these gloves, especially after having designed the Suzette fingerless gloves a short while ago.
So, without further ado, here is the pattern.
Requirements
Yarn: Any #3/light worsted/DK weight yarn
I used Elle Pullskein DK - colour 078 Indigo (for the blue pair) and
Kismet Lollipop DK - colours 44 Hazel and 45 Cappuccino (for the neutral pair)
Hook: 4mm (you could change your hook size up or down to make the gloves bigger or
smaller)
Stitch markers
Scissors
Tapestry needle
2 buttons (optional)
Size: This glove pattern fits a hand width (not including the thumb) of
approximately 19.5 - 20.5cm.
This pattern uses US terms.
Abbreviations
ch(s): chain(s)
sc: single crochet
scblo: single crochet back loop only
BLO: back loop only
st(s): stitch(es)
sl st: slip stitch
sk: skip
hdc: half double crochet
hhdc: herringbone half double crochet
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
SM: stitch marker
YO: yarn over
Special stitches
Herringbone half double crochet
YO, insert hook into stitch/space, YO and pull up a loop (so you have the 3 loops on the hook), slip the 1st loop through the 2nd loop, and then YO and draw through both loops. You can watch this video by Daisy Farm Crafts here to help should you need it.
Please note: These gloves are made by working just on the RS and therefore, the overall look will be different from a flat swatch that is made where you work on both the RS and WS and not just working on the RS as in the round.
Should you want your gloves to have the "typical" hhdc look, you could work your glove by working on the outside (RS) of the glove and then working on the inside (WS) of the glove.
Camel stitch
Make a hdc as normal except that you will be inserting your hook into the 3rd loop of the hdc. You can watch a video made by Bella Coco Crochet here to help. Stitch explanation starts at 10:09. This stitch forms the knit-look rows which add lovely detail to the glove.
Invisible slip stitch join
You can use this technique shown by littlejohnsyarn to join each round, but it is optional. You can join as normal by simply sl stitching into the 1st hdc as stated in the pattern. This technique does, however, make for an invisible seam.
PATTERN (make 2)
Please note:
Numbers in brackets at the end of a round indicate the number of sts you should have.
Instruction between asterisks indicates a repeat.
Ch1 at the beginning of a row does not count as a stitch, so the 1st st of the row will go into the same space from which the ch1 comes.
CUFF
Round 1
Ch 9 (or more if you want a wider cuff)
Sc into the 2nd ch from the hook and to the end, ch1, turn. (8 sc)
Rounds 2-28
Sc into the first st going through both loops (same st that your turning ch comes from), sc BLO to the 2nd to last st, sc through both loops in the last st, ch1, turn. (8 sc)
You now have 28 rows of scblo rib which will give you 28 sts for the body of the glove once you have joined the cuff.
If you want a looser/longer cuff, just make more rows of rib. Do remember, though, that this will affect the making of the thumb hole as you will be working with different stitch counts.
Joining the cuff:
· At the end of row 28, your working yarn loop will be on the left of your work.
· Fold up your work from the bottom – your first row will be facing you and the starting tail will be on the right.
· Turn your work around so that the last row is facing you, the working loop is on your right and the starting tail is on the left (see pic below).
Join the cuff using sl sts.
· Ch1, *pick up the back loop of the row facing you and the loop that is available from the first row (3 loops on hook),
YO, pull through all 3 loops*. Repeat to the end, you should have 8 sc joins. Turn your joined cuff inside out. This will now be the RS- we do this so that the join looks like the rest of the rows.
BODY OF THE GLOVE
Round 1
Ch1 (you will start each round till the end using a ch 1 which does not count as a stitch).
Make a hdc into each stitch across the top of your joined cuff, making sure you go into the spaces in the valleys and ridges created by the rib. Join with a sl st into the 1st hdc. (28)
Rounds 2-4 (camel stitch):
Ch1, hdc into the 3rd loop into each stitch around. Join with a sl st into the 1st hdc. (28)
Rounds 5-6:
Ch1, hhdc into each st around and join with a sl st into the 1st hhdc. (28)
Round 7:
We now want to increase 6 sts to account for the widening of the hand.
Ch1, make 2 hhdc into each of the first 3 sts, hhdc into the next 22 sts, and 2hhdc into each of the last 3 sts. Join with a sl st into the 1st hhdc. (34)
Rounds 8-14:
Ch1, hhdc into each st around and join with a sl st into the 1st hhdc. (34)
Round 15 (shaping the thumb hole):
Right-hand glove:
Sl st in the next 3 sts (takes you to the 4th hhdc), sk the next 25sts, and sl st to the next st (insert hook into the st, draw through a loop and then draw this loop through the loop behind it). This then joins the front side of the glove to the back side and leaves 7 unworked stitches which form the thumb hole of the glove. You will not be working these 7 sts again.
Ch 1, hhdc in the same st and hhdc in each st to the end (making sure that you make 27 hhdc in total). Join with a sl st into the 1st hhdc. (27)
Left-hand glove:
Ch 1, hhdc in the first 11sts, sk 7sts, sl st into the next st (the 19th), which then joins the front side of the glove to the back side and leaves 7 unworked stitches which form the thumb hole of the glove. You will not be working these 7 sts again.
Ch1, hhdc into the same st and in each of the sts to the end (making sure you have 27 hhdc in total), join with a sl st into the 1st hhdc. (27)
Rounds 16-18:
Ch1, hhdc into each st around and join with a sl st into the 1st hhdc. (27)
Should you wish to make the hand section longer, just add more rows until you reach your desired length.
Fasten off and sew in your ends. If you are using buttons, work the buttons onto the camel stitch section ensuring the buttons are opposite to the thumb hole on the top side of the glove as seen in the picture at the beginning.
Ta-daa, you’re finished! Happy crocheting!
This pattern has only been tested by me, so if you have any problems, feel free to contact me.
No unauthorised reproduction, in whole or in part, or distribution of this pattern or content is permitted, so I kindly ask you please not to share this pattern in any form whatsoever, whether by a photocopy or by translation. You may, however, share the link to this pattern.
If sharing what you have made on social media, I would appreciate you tagging me @adrecreates or use #maryannegloves