Below is a very easy slipper that you can crochet to keep your feet warm on those chilly nights. You can quickly crochet a pair in about an hour or more. These were made just in time for a really chilly, rainy, grey April weekend here in South Africa with the first snows of the Winter season falling in the higher lying areas of the Drakensberg and also in Lesotho.
These slippers can be used as bed socks too.
PATTERN
MATERIALS
Yarn : Charity Chunky (Saprotex) or any chunky/bulky weight yarn in the colour of your choice - I used 67g
Hook: 8 mm or larger if you want a larger size
Yarn needle
Scissors
SIZE
These slippers will fit a size 38/39 (Euro), 5-6 (UK), 5 ½ -6 ½ (US), but you could easily adapt by using thicker yarn and a larger hook. By fitting on as you go, you can add length or width to you slipper as well, should you need to.
ABBREVIATIONS (US terms)
MR - magic ring
ch - chain
sc(s) - single crochet(s)
sl. st - slip stitch
st(s) - stitch(es)
inc - increase (2 sc into the same st)
FO - fasten off
WS - wrong side
INSTRUCTIONS (Make 2)
TOE AND FRONT FOOT SECTION
Make a magic ring - I always use a double magic ring as I find it far more secure.
Watch a YT video if you do not know how here .
Please note - the directions in red are for a slipper starting with 8sc
Round 1: Ch1 into the MR, then make 7sc into the MR. Join with a sl. st into the 1st sc. (7sc)
If you have a wider foot, you could start with 8sc into the MR (8sc)
You could even start with 6sc and adapt as needs be if you wanted a narrower slipper.
Round 2: ch 1, (inc) X7. Join with a sl. st into the 1st sc. (14sc/16sc)
Round 3: ch 1, sc in each st all around. Join with a sl. st into the 1st sc. (14sc/16sc)
Check here if the piece is too wide for your foot. If it is, you need to keep to the original pattern starting with 7sc.
Round 4: ch1, (sc, inc) x7. Join with a sl. st into the 1st sc. (21sc/24sc)
Round 5-15: ch1, sc in each st all around. Join with a sl. st into the 1st sc. (21sc/24sc). FO
Your piece should measure about 13 cm from the toe or about 3cm from where your leg starts.
Making sure the the joining seam is underneath (so that it can't be seen when wearing the slippers), join your yarn in the front side of the slipper about the 4th stitch from the left edge of the slipper.
BACK FOOT AND HEEL SECTION
You will now be working in rows on both sides of your work.
Rows 16-26: ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 16/18 sts, ch1, turn (17sc/19sc). This means there will be 4/5 unworked stitches at the front of your work. These sts will be worked later.
At the end of round 26, check to see whether the heel section is long enough for your foot. If it isn't, add extra rows here. If you added extra rows, you would have to adjust the amount of scs you use for the border.
Fold the heel section in half and join the ends on the WS.
I did this simply by crocheting the 2 sides together (from the WS) using a sl. st (using the back and front loops , i.e. the inner loops of the stitches) and then sl. stitching back up the seam to get to the edge from where one can start the border. Doing it this way creates a lovely natural heel section at the back and there are no ridges in the seam.
BORDER (you are working in rounds again)
Rounds 27 - 30: ch1, make 12sc evenly along the left side of the foot, 4sc/5sc into the unworked 4/5sts at the front and another 12 sc evenly up the right side of the foot. Join with a sl. st into the 1st sc. (28sc/29sc)
Please note; this does not have to be exact, there must just be enough scs on either side of the foot so that the slipper does not pucker up (too few) or become wavy (too many).
Round 31: If you feel the hole for your foot is too loose, do the following, otherwise just do another round of sc into every st.
Ch1, (5sc, sc2tog) x7, Join with a sl. st into the 1st sc. (24sc)
Use the invisible sc dec. Here is a YT video showing you how.
If you were doing an adapted size, don't stress if yours does not work out exactly the same - we are just decreasing a few sts to make the hole smaller. You can another decrease row ([4sc, dec] all around) if you want the foot hole even smaller (20sc).
Note: you could continue with extra rows if you want your slipper to come further up your leg. Depending on how far up you want to go, you may have to increase again as the leg gets wider.
Round 31: ch1, crab st /reverse sc all around. Watch a YT video here if you do not know how to do the crab stitch.
This just gives a nice edging to your slipper, but is not essential.
FO and work in yarn tails.
It is a very forgiving pattern and can easily be adapted to fit smaller or larger feet simply by:
1) Starting with fewer or more scs in the MR.
2) Subtracting or adding rows to the heel section and obviously then adapting the amount of scs worked in the first row of the border.
You can make your slipper fancier by adding buttons, crochet flowers, using more than one colour etc.
Enjoy making them.
Please note - this pattern has not been tested, so you may find mistakes. Please drop me a note if you do. It would be much appreciated.