I don't know about you, but I love fingerless gloves. Yes, they don't keep your fingers warm, but they do allow you to still work (crochet/text...) with your fingers whilst providing some warmth and, here in South Africa where I live, our Winters do not generally require full gloves or mittens. I also enjoy them just from the added accesorisation element that they provide, just like boot cuffs. They just add that little extra to an outfit!
I recently came across the Suzette stitch and used it to make the body of a bucket hat. I enjoyed this lovely, simple yet textured stitch so much that I decided to try and design some gloves using it. So, whilst at a crochet group one Friday, I started trying a design, all the while making notes on my phone so that I would remember how to do it. I was very chuffed with my attempt and just incredibly lucky that the stitch lent itself so easily to a design.
It makes for a nice warm glove as the stitch pattern forms a dense weave/fabric.
Requirements
Yarn: Approximately 38g of any #3/DK weight yarn
Hook: 4mm (you could change your hook size up or down to make the gloves bigger or
smaller)
Stitch markers
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Size: This glove pattern fits a hand width (not including the thumb) of
approximately 19.5 - 20.5cm.
This pattern uses US terms.
Abbreviations
ch(s): chain(s)
sc: single crochet
scblo: single crochet back loop only
BLO: back loop only
st(s): stitch(es)
sl st: slip stitch
sk: skip
dc: double crochet
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
S.st: Suzette stitch
SM: stitch marker
Special stitches
Suzette stitch
Ch1, sc and dc into the same st, sk a st, *sc and a dc into the next st, sk a st*
PATTERN (make 2)
Please note:
· Numbers in brackets at the end of a round indicate the number of sts you should have.
· Instructions between asterisks indicate a repeat.
· The Suzette stitch gets its texture by working on both the right side and wrong side of your work. As the gloves are being worked in the round, there would not normally be a turning of the work. In order to maintain the Suzette stitch texture, you ARE going to turn your work, thus working on both RS and WS.
· Be careful to make sure you are starting each round on the correct side.
CUFF
Round 1
Ch 9 (or more if you want a wider cuff)
Sc into the 2nd ch from the hook and to the end, ch1, turn. (8 sc)
Round 2-28
Sc into the first st going through both loops (same st that your turning ch comes from), sc BLO to the 2nd to last st, sc through both loops in the last st, ch1, turn. (8 sc)
You now have 28 rows of scblo rib which will give you 28sts for the body of the glove once you have joined the cuff.
If you want a looser/longer cuff, just make more rows of rib, ensuring that you have an even number of rib rows.
Joining the cuff:
· At the end of row 28, your working yarn loop will be on the left of your work (see pic below).
· Fold up your work from the bottom – your first row will be facing you and the starting tail will be on the right (see pic above).
· Turn your work around so that the last row is facing you, the working loop is on your right and the staring tail on the left (see pic below).
Join the cuff using sl sts.
· Ch1, *pick up the back loop of the row facing you and the loop that is available from the first row (3 loops on hook),
*YO, pull through all 3 loops. Repeat to the end, you should have 8 sc joins. Turn your joined cuff inside out. This will now be the RS- we do this so that the join looks like the rest of the rows.
BODY OF THE GLOVE
Round 1
RS
You will now be using the Suzette stitch for the hand of the glove.
You will also be turning your work at the end of each round in order to have the required texture of the Suzette stitch. If you would rather not turn your work, you don’t have to, but the texture will look slightly different.
In the pic below the space between the ridges will be your skipped stitch. You will place your Suzette (sc/dc) in the space on top of the ridge.
Ch1, sc and a dc into the same st, sk a st, (sc and a dc into the next st, sk a st) to the end. Join with a sl st into the first sc. Ch1, turn. (14 sc/dc groups, 14 skipped sts)
Round 2-3
WS, RS
Sc and a dc into the same st that the ch1 comes from - this will seem a bit strange as you are almost working a bit behind the ch1). You will always be working the S.sts into the sc from the previous round), sk a st (which will be the dc from the previous round), (sc and a dc into the next st, sk a st) to the end. Join with a sl st into the first sc. Ch1, turn.
Round 4
WS
We now want to increase the width of the glove to accomodate the thumb.
You will be making an extra 2 Suzette sts in the dc (that you usually skip) between 2sc’s. This will give you 16 S.sts. Here’s how you do it:
Make your 1st increase in the dc of the 1st S.st at the beginning of the row and your 2nd inc in the dc of the last S.st at the end of the row. (16sc/dc groups)
Round 5-6
RS,WS
Continue with the stitch pattern as in row 1, except that you will now have 16 sc/dc groups.
Round 7
RS
As round 1. At the end of this round, place a SM in the 29th st (the sc of the 2nd to last S.st of the round). Once you have joined round 7, do not Ch1.
Round 8
WS
Staying on the RS (just to start off the round)
Sl st loosely along the next 6 sts (starting where you see the st marker in the pic below and ending in a sc from where you will start round 8 on the WS).
Now join both sides by slip stitching into the st you marked with a SM in round 7.
(You have now formed the thumb hole which will have 5 S.sts).
Continue from here working on the WS. Do pattern st for 12 S.sts (12 sc/dc groups)
Start your 1st stitch of round 8 in the space to the right of the stitch on your hook.
Round 8-12
WS,RS,WS, RS,WS
Continue in pattern st as in row 1.
FO with an invisible join. Weave in ends.
Should you wish to make the hand section longer, just add more rows until you reach your desired length.
Ta-daa, you’re finished! Happy crocheting!
No unauthorised reproduction, in whole or in part, or distribution of this pattern or content is permitted, so I kindly ask you please not to share this pattern in any form whatsoever, whether by a photocopy or by translation. You may, however, share the link to this pattern.
If sharing what you have made on social media, I would appreciate your tagging me @adrecreates or use #suzettegloves