Last week I saw a blanket made by a friend's daughter using the C2C in the round technique, She had made it using some locally-produced (Saprotex) South African self-striping Elle Colour Crush yarn, and it looked beautiful. She just let the colour flow and one would have thought that she had controlled the colour transition. Below is an example of Colour Crush.
Having dabbled briefly in C2C, I decided to learn how to do it and after enquiring where I should go to learn, I was told to just Google it on YouTube. Yay for Google! I found a tutorial by BlueRose Crochet here.
I duly sat down and watched the video, but wanted a written something to remind me how to do it without having to watch a video all over again. As there was no link in the description box to a written version I decided to write the technique down in a way that I understood it. This actually helped me to grasp the basic concepts of C2C in the round - it does obviously help if you already have a knowledge of C2C.
So, below is my attempt to write the technique down and hopefully, it will help some others too.
Presuming a basic knowledge of C2C:
The first block of a round/row is made by working into the chs
each C2C block is made up of 3ch +3dc
we need to flip our work to start a new row or round (more about this later)
we work the dc's into the gap between the ch3 and the dc's
Some things to understand when working C2C in the round or, in other words, from the centre out. You are, therefore, making a square from the centre out. It is important to recognise the corners and sides as that determines how many dc's you make.
There will be 4 sides with 4 corners
Corners have 2 C2C blocks that form a rectangular shape, the outer edge being straight. The first block is 3ch +4dc, the second block is 3ch + 3dc into the gap between the 3rd and 4th dc of the previous block. So, the 4th dc of the 1st block is substituting for a 3ch and providing the gap into which to work. This is how the integrity of a C2C block (3ch +3dc) is maintained.
The sides are made up ofC2C blocks at right angles to each other, so their outer edge forms a peak and valley effect, Side blocks are always made using 3ch + 3dc.
The start of a round is always made (except right at the beginning) by the usual method = ch6, dc into the 4th ch from the hook and into the next 2 chs, giving you 3ch +3dc and you will always flip your work (as in regular C2C) afterwards. This ch-start block gives you one of the blocks of the 2-block corner which will be completed at the end of the round (so, in other words, you will have made 1/2 a corner).
At the end of a round when you do the last 1/2 of the first corner, you will use 3dc.
Below is a written pattern of the 1st 3 rounds to get you started.
This is written using US terms.
Abbreviations
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
sl st - slip stitch
sp - space
Round 1
1st block
Ch7, dc into 4th ch from the hook and to the end (4dc+3ch )
2nd block
Ch3, 4dc into the gap before the last dc
3rd block
Ch3, into the gap before the 4th/last dc from the previous block, make 4dc.
4th block
Ch 3, 3dc into the gap before the last dc from the previous block, sl st into the ch3-sp of the 1st block = round 1 complete
Round 2
½ half of the 1st corner
Ch6, dc into 4th ch from the hook and the next 2 ch’s (=start of a corner) (3ch +3dc = 4dc), flip your work like in a normal C2C and sl st into the ch3-gap.
2nd corner
Ch 3, 4dc into the same 3ch space, ch3, 3dc into the gap before the dc you just finished, sl st into the next ch3-gap available.
So, you are always working with 2 blocks to form a corner.
1st block = 4dc (you need the extra dc to form the sp into which you work the next block).
2nd block =3dc
3rd corner
Ch 3, 4dc into the same gap as the sl st, ch3, 3dc into the gap before the dc you just finished, sl st into the next ch3-gap available.
4th corner
Ch 3, 4dc into the same gap as the sl st, ch3, 3dc into the gap before the dc you just finished,
sl st into the next ch3-gap available.
Last ½ of the 1st corner
Ch 3, 3dc into 3ch sp, sl st to 1st ch3-gap = end of round 2
Round 3
First ½ of the 1st corner
The start of a round will always be the 6ch-start as follows
Ch6, dc into 4th ch from the hook and the next 2 ch’s. (3ch +3dc = 4dc),
flip your work from right to left like in a normal C2C and sl st into the ch3-gap.
1 side block
Ch3, 3dc into ch3-sp, sl st into next available ch3-sp
Please note: with each successive round there will be one more side block before you get to the corner.
2nd corner
Ch 3, 4dc into the same gap as the sl st, ch3, 3dc into the gap before the dc you just finished,
sl st to next available 3ch-sp
1 side block
Ch 3, 3dc into same ch3-sp, sl st into the next ch3-sp
3rd corner
Ch 3, 4dc into the same gap as the sl st, ch3, 3dc into the gap before the dc you just finished, sl st into the next ch3-gap available.
1 side block
Ch 3, 3dc into the same ch3-sp, sl st into the next ch3-sp
4th corner
Ch 3, 4dc into the same gap as the sl st, ch3, 3dc into the gap before the dc you just finished,
sl st into the next ch3-gap available.
1 side block
Ch 3, 3dc into same ch3-sp, sl st into the next ch3-sp
Last ½ of the 1st corner
Ch 3, 3dc into 3ch sp, sl st to 1st ch3-sp = end of round 3
Round 4 →
From here you follow the same sequence as round 3 except that there will be one more side block with each successive round.
I hope this all makes sense.
You can make it with a solid colour yarn, change colour with each round or even use an ombré yarn.
Have fun!
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